Talakadu and BR Hills

Talakadu and BR Hills Trip

Talakad is known for the buried temples under the sands on the Cauvery River. Talakad, on the left bank of the river Cauvery, was a flourishing town, ruled by many kings. Even now, we can see the majestic Cauvery River and the green paddy fields and sugarcane cultivation. There are some beautiful temples (Vaidyeshvara temple is famous) buried under the sand and excavated. The Cholas ruled there, the Hoysala kings fought against the Cholas, and they showed their supremacy too. Later, it came under Vijayanagara control too. There are lots of myths and fables about the fall of the town and how the sand from the Cauvery River covered the temples. I visited the temples and the town as a part of my bike ride towards BR Hills in December 2023.

Diverting the water from the Cauvery River, Madhava Mantri built a dam in the year 1140 AD further developed in the 14th century during the Vijayanagara period. This created sandbanks in that place and the river slowly changed its course. Besides this, the monsoon winds added havoc to the whole town and the temples were buried under the sand dunes. Talakkadu is situated directly in the path of the South-West monsoon winds, which regularly deposit sand. These continued for several decades and Talakadu was buried under sand.

The Talakadu excavation began in 1996 by seeing the tower of the temples that appeared above the sands.  Besides Hindu temples, a Jain Temple, a bathing pond dating back to the Vijayanagara period, and pottery of the Neolithic period burying dead in the riverbanks were other findings of this place. Many myths and fables came into existence after the buried temples and villages. The famous one is of the 17th century Alamelamma’s curse and the Mysore Wadiyar dynasty. Unless you are a historian, it is very difficult to predict the history of the temples and the excavated villages there. The locals are unaware of many facts. The Cholas built the Vaidyanatheshwara Temple in the Dravidian style. After visiting this temple, one has to walk on the sandy path, under the tin pave way to the other temples, surrounded by eucalyptus trees. There is a Vishnu temple built by the Hoysala king, Vishnu Vardhan in the 12th century. Even today, it is a fertile ground to study by historians, archaeologists and geography students.

The trip was a pleasant one. I started the journey around 630 am, took the Nice Road from Electronic City and existed near Kanakapura. I had breakfast at Kanakapura Sri Krishna Sagar together to pwith my student Chetan who came on his motorcycle. After breakfast, solo ride continued until Talakadu (thanks to the Google map) and reached at 9:45 am. 

While working in Tamil Nadu I used to travel via Kanakapura, Malavalli, and Kollegal regularly, so the route and road was familiar to me at majority of the places. There is nothing significant in the roads except that up to Kanakapura the roads were in a mess and chaos due to the construction and broadening of the roads. Sure, after one year everyone who uses the road has to pay hefty tolls … thanks to the National Highway Authority…

After reaching Talakad, I enquired the people about the way to the temple. I met again my student at Talakadu, who was waiting there. There is a shed to place to shoes before entering the temple, enough parking available. Few shops are there to buy water and other pooja items. 

I visited the excavated Dravidian styled Vaidyanatheshwara Temple and admired the beauty. I did not visit the other excavated temples, because it was very difficult to walk in the sand dunes (be prepared). The path was paved with tin sheet roof for facilitating the walk and visit the other temples. The whole place was surrounded by eucalyptus trees. There is a Vishnu temple (I heard and read) built by the Hoysala king, Vishnu Vardhan in the 12th century. I walked a few meters and returned. 

Historians, archaeologists and gullible religious people will be interested to see the temples. If one has to explore all the excavations and temples, spend some time, even days there, to study the sand dunes and other natural phenomenon. That is my conclusion. 

After a short visit to Talakadu, I moved toward Biligiri Rangana Hills (B.R. Hills). I asked my student to meet near the entrance of the forest check post where one has to sign if travelling in a private vehicle. So solo ride again stated again.

The road had some beautiful sights. One has to cross the Kaveripura Bridge and it was a wonderful sight to see the paddy fields, which spread to hectares. It was only 32 km from Talakadu to the BR forest check post, but it took nearly one hour because the bike route went through many rural villages. With a cheerful mind, I reached the BR Hills Forest check post to sign at 11:20 am. I saw my student has signed at 11:10 am. 

After signing in the check post, BR Tiger Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary started. Some 13 km ride in the forest that took less than 30 minutes. If lucky, one can see elephants (though elephant dung is seen on the roads at many places), Tigers, Leopards, sloth bears, wild dogs, barking deer, spotted deer, wild boars, Malabar giant squirrels and many wild animals. I was able to see some wild boars.

At B.R. Hills, I met my student again at the Hotel Mayura Biligiri. We had a small hike to the Biligiri Ranganatha Swamy Temple is at the top of the hills. Saw many people praying and doing unique rituals there. We sat down in the temple campus sometime. Some Annadanam was going on in the temple and the smell of the Sambar was mesmerizing.

In the evening around 4 pm took a ride towards K.Gudi to see the Kyathadevara Gudi Wilderness Camp. We saw elephant dung at many places on the road. Due to isolation, the fear of elephant attack on the roads, and slight drizzling we returned after a few kilometres. However, we visited one settlement of Soliga tribes. Let me tell you something about the Soliga Tribe.

Soliga people speak the Sholaga language, with Kannada and Tamil influences as their mother tongue.  They inhabit in Mysore district and in the neighbouring Tamil Nadu. The people mainly live in the forest areas of B.R Hills and Male Mahadeshwara Hills (M.M. Hills) and the Kollegala taluks in Karnataka and near Talawady, Sathyamahnagalm in Erode districts in Tamil Nadu. As per the 2011 Census (one that is available even though we live in 2023), Soliga's population is about 33,871 in Karnataka and 5,965 in Tamil Nadu. The occupation of people is selling forest fruits, gooseberry, honey, soap nuts, root and tubers, tamarind and similar products. Soligas are famous for black magic?? and the treatment of various ailments.

After the establishment of Tiger Reserve forests in many areas, their life has changed a lot. Soliga people who led a semi-nomadic life were given settlements in many areas so that they did not wander around the forests. In the name of enlightenment, government, politicians and NGOs exploited the people and built settlements for them. There may be some true people helping them to live the life more comfortably. 

ATREE - Ashoka Trust for Research in Ecology and the Environment (an NGO) - has a center backside of the temple and studies the people now, gets regular funding from the government of India and the Ministry of Science and Technology. In a way, it sounds like good work, if one thinks deeply - a group of people who lived one with nature for centuries, is brought back to the dirty, corrupted political stream of the country. A sad story of many tribal communities in India.

On the second day, we had to wait till 9 am to get our breakfast from the Hotel. The return journey to my home started at 9:35 am, reached home at 1:50 pm (though I was supposed to reach by 1:20 pm). Crossing the Cauvery River again, seeing the green and yellow paddy fields and coming to the traffic filled roads of Bangalore was a good experience. Some stopovers and missed routes (due to Google Map Snag) at Jigani prolonged my travel time. Seeing many beautiful sceneries on the way, few Photo sessions enriched my senses. The ride was pleasant and enriching to the eyes and senses.