Dhimbam Ghat Road - (Alternative Road to Bangalore)

Alternative Road (Bangalore to Coimbatore and beyond...)

Take this road and avoid exorbitant toll on the Highways.

I had an opportunity to drive from Kerala to Bangalore via Dhimbham (Dhimbam) ghat road recently. I have taken this trip in 2014 many times in my Fiat Palio 1.6 sport car. This time, after a gap of few years I felt the increased desire to see the developments in this area. This time I drove a Honda Jazz 1.2 Automatic with my wife. Half-heartedly my wife agreed to travel in the Ghat Road.

Due to the temple festival at Bannari, I felt the decision to drive in this road was a bad choice on April 4, 2023. The temple festival and the crowd were on full swing on the day of my travel; but I was not aware of the festival earlier. I realized it after reaching Bhavanisagar Dam site, after seeing many special buses running towards Bannari and to various nearby villages and towns. It was late when I decided to avoid Bannari route. When fully realized the temple festival and the delay, I was already in the crowd.

Let me say something about the temple first: it is one of the famous Amman temples in Tamil Nadu. It is said to be 300 years old.  It is situated 10 km from Sathyamangalam, at the footsteps of the Western Ghats; at a junction that connects Bangalore or Mysore (Chamarajanagar route) in the Karnataka state, with Sathyamangalam and Bhavanisagar Dam Road. Both the Sathyamangalam and Bhavanisagar dam road further goes to Coimbatore. The annual festival generally falls in the first week of April. So, expect a big crowds and travel delays during these days. Otherwise, it is a pleasant sight to visit the temple and see it when lesser crowd and cars.

Bhavanisagar Dam: it was constructed on the Bhavani River, in 1950s. It is one of the largest earthen dams (earthfill dam). Only the outer layer and Spillway are made of concrete. The dam water is used for two hydroelectric power plants, besides watering the nearby districts for agriculture and other purposes. The front side of the dam has a beautiful garden. The garden and the dam are often throng by villagers from nearby places. They visit as a picnic spot. In the dam vicinity and in the main roadside, there are many fish frying shops are there (check the hygiene of the fish that are kept uncovered at the eateries). A beautiful road goes towards Bannari temple and Sathyamangalam Tiger Reserve Forest from the dam. 

 Talking about the Dhimbam ghat road, it is a 14 km stretch road with 27 hairpin bends, on the Western Ghats, at the Tamil Nadu side. Once we climb the mountain and travel few Kilometers, Karnataka state begins. The road is part of the Dindigul – Mysore/Bengaluru National Highway 948, which passes through Sathyamangalam Tiger Reserve. In the last few years, night travel is restricted on this route (6 pm to 6am or for some vehicles 9pm to 6am) to protect the animals. Also, I heard that vehicles are charged small entrance fee (I did not pay during this trip in April 2023, as there was festival at Bannari temple) to maintain the Tiger reserve. The ghat road is usually crowded with vehicles.  Many people use this road as an alternative to reach Mysore, to enjoy the scenic natural beauty of the route and, to avoid heavy tolls at the Bangalore Highway. Bangalore - Coimbatore highway that passes through Hosur charges more than 650 Rs at toll gates; I don’t know the present hike % after the April 2023 financial year). 

Dhimbam mountain road has 27 Hairpin bends, though many travelers and riders write about the hardship of climbing this road, I never felt while driving the cars. It is mere pleasure to drive; the roads are broad and never pose any danger to travel. The only caution is, 'don’t go behind any heavy lorries, slow moving old unmaintained cars'. To enjoy the trip, drive in your speed, in your style, fast or slow rhythm, halt cautiously where there are no wild animals and the roads are broad, you will surely enjoy the drive.

We took the Bhavanisagar dam route, reached Bannari (without realizing the festival day and the unimaginable crowd). Because of the Temple crowd our trip was delayed more than 50 minutes. We were terribly disappointed by the delay. I felt that I made a mistake to do the trip on this day. Before starting the travel, I failed to check the calendars for Temple Festival days or even, the Google maps. Anyway, this is not the place to regret. 

The Sathyamangalam Forest check post is situated just after the temple. Enter into the Forest Road, drive couple of kilometers, then the mountain Ghat road begins. It was a pleasure to drive as there were very few vehicles on the road (may be due to Temple Festival). I fully enjoyed driving at the 27 hairpins. Once climbed the mountain, that is nearly 1000 mts height from sea level, I reached the village called Dhimbam. At Dhimbam junction, left side road goes to Thalavadi (though at times this road is closed due to Tiger Reserve Restrictions). The main road goes to Chamarajanagar. 

After travelling 4 km from the Dhimbam junction towards Chamarajanagar, on the righthand side there is a road going directly to Kollegal (Talamalai RF Road) without touching Chamarajanagar: Gedasal, Kanakkarai, Germalam, in the Tamil Nadu side, Bylur, Odeyarpalya, Balanagara and Dhondenling in the Karnataka state.  It is a fully paved road with Tar, but a smaller road compared to Chamarajanagar Road. Though I am familiar with the Chamarajanagar Road towards Bangalore, on which I travelled many times, the Kollegal Road was new for me, and want to try. So, I took the Kollegal Road after crossing Dhimbam. 

After entering the Road, I experienced that the road goes inside a dense forest and it was nice to travel. However, I was panic-stricken, sensing the non-availability of Mobile network at many places, no villages or people around and saw cars scarcely (April 2023). On the road, elephant dung was seen at many places and the freshly broken tree branches, bushes reminded me of the recent Elephant movement in that place. The more I saw elephant dungs, the fear increased in me. Though the roads were in excellent condition, the beauty of the forest was in its pristine form, the fact that there is no mobile network, plenty of elephant dung on the road, created an isolated feeling. I decided to return to the familiar Chamarajanagar Road. We had already travelled 3, 4 km in the Kollegal road, therefore ventured to travel further in the same forest road. With an increased fear, drove the car cautiously: what if elephants were sighted on the road, no network to call people, or no vehicles support, even the roads were narrow to turn the car and go backward, I am not good at driving in reverse gear, curvy roads, a lady in the car… So, a word of caution to all travel enthusiasts, those who travel with family... my humble suggestion would be: take the Chamarajanagar Road rather than this Kollegal Road. Probably, this Kollegal road is ideal for motorcycle riders, who likes adventure, to see the natural beauty, forests and animal movement in the forest. Only such souls can venture this road.

Many Jungle fowls (mainly cock), Peacocks and Greater coucal or crow pheasant were spotted on the roadside, though no elephant, deer or any other animals sighted. Finally, when we crossed Kanakkari and reached a small eatery named Eco Shop, breathed a sigh of relief after 20, 25km, nearly 40 minutes of scary drive. The Eco shop had Prota, Chapatti, Tea and Coffee. We spend some 20, 30 minutes there and relaxed. The shop is close to a check post, enquired about elephant movement further on the road and the reply was negative. So, travelled on the beautiful road with relaxed feeling, enjoying the land scape. From the Eco tea shop, just 3 km away is the A.P.M.C Check Post of Karnataka State. After that, normalcy was seen on the roads with regular villages and people. 

We crossed one more landmark after the Tamil Nadu-Karnataka border, Dhondenling Tibetan Settlement. It is around 10km from the Check post and border, somewhere between Odeyarpalya and Balanagara. Though I heard a lot about the Tibetan people and their settlement near Kollegal, did not visit their settlement this time.  In fact, I was planning to take some counseling students here in 2017 but did not happen that time either.

After the occupation of Tibet by the China in 1959, many Tibetans fled Tibet together with Dalai Lama as refugees and settled in India, Nepal and Bhutan. Dhondenling Tibetan Settlement at Odeyarpalya, near Kollegal in Karnataka is one such settlement in South India, established in 1974. The people cultivate maize, ragi and potato regularly. The Dhimbam-Kollegal road touches Anthiyur road (Kollegala – Hanur Road) some 6 km away from Kollegal town.

I recommend the Dhimbam-Chamarajanagar route for regular travels. It has broader roads and easy to drive, without the fear of elephants. I travelled many times earlier in this route. The Dhimbam-Kollegal route which I took this time, is new to me, enjoyed the driving, but with the fear of wild elephants. 

The further drive to Malavalli, Kanakapura, Harohalli – Jigani and then to Bangalore Electronic City - was nothing extraordinary to say. Harohalli – Jigani road has some poor patches, otherwise it is a good drive with scenic views. 

This Coimbatore-Bangalore ghat route takes more than one hour compared to the regular Coimbatore-Bangalore Highway. One economic advantage is, one can avoid the exorbitant tolls collected in the name of good roads (I am an open critic of toll plazas - for me, it is the duty of the government to provide good roads. The government can collect 10 rupees at each toll plaza, it is more reasonable??!!). The ghat road is an excellent alternative, if one wish to travel by daytime; enjoy the beauties of nature (Coimbatore- Bhavanisagar dam or Sathyamangalam-Dhimbam-Chamarajanagar-Kanakapura-Bangalore).